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The Bhaja Caves are located 12 km from Lonavala and can be reached by an uphill climb of half-an-hour from the Malavali railway station on the Mumbai-Lonavla route, a Pune section of the Central Railway. Bhaja has 18 caves belonging to the 2nd century BC. Cave No. 12 is the largest and has a fine stilted vault. Here, one can gaze across to the impressive fort of Lohagarh or gaze up to the forbidding heights of Vishapur. The entrance gate to this site is opposite Cave 12. Cave 12 is one of the most exciting caves to explore. This is one of the first apsidal Chaitya halls in the western Deccan. The architect, a Buddhist monk from Northern India, has used timber structures – teak struts have been inserted into the stone vault – possibly for aesthetic reasons but, probably, more out of nostalgia. Twenty-seven octagonal columns divide the temple. There is also a Stupa in front of the columns, at the far end, which slopes gradually inwards. The teak beams were painted, but now, due to the ravages of time, not much paint is left. The sockets at the entrance suggest that, once, a timber door existed there. To the left of Cave 12 are three quite interesting monasteries – 5, 6 and 11 – and, to the right, are monasteries 13, 14, 18, the small 19, and the large 20. Cave 19 has two fascinating sculptures in very low relief, which are still well-preserved. One sculpture depicts the sun god Surya, with his chariot drawn by four horses. Here, his retinue of warriors, trampling the bodies of enormous obnoxious-looking demons, accompanies him. The other sculpture depicts Indra, sitting astride his elephant, Airavata, that appeared when the ocean was churned up. Cave 20 is a stupa cave. It seems the monks were followers of Hinayana, because the Stupa shows no image of Buddha and is related to Sunga artists at Bharhut and Sanchi in Madhya Pradesh. The last cave to the south has excellent sculptures, including that of the famous ‘Dancing Couple’.