When selfie was crowned the Word of 2013 by the Oxford Dictionaries, the media reaction ranged from apocalyptic to cautiously optimistic. For the Calgary Herald's Andrew Cohen, "selfie culture" represents the "critical mass" of selfish entitlement; for Navneet Alang in the Globe and Mail, selfies are inextricable from the need for self-expression, a "reminder of what it means to be human." For the Guardian's Jonathan Freedland, the selfie is both: at once "the ultimate emblem of the age of narcissism" and a function of the "timeless human need to connect." With a few exceptions, commentators tended to converge on one point: the selfie, and the unencumbered act of self-creation it represents, is unmistakably of our time, shorthand for a whole host of cultural tropes wedded to the era of the smartphone. As Jennifer O'Connell, writing for the Irish Times, puts it: "It's hard to think of a more appropriate-or more depressing-symbol of the kind of society we have become. We are living in an age of narcissism, an age in which only our best, most attractive, most carefully constructed selves are presented to the world."
But our obsession with the power of self-creation-and its symbiotic relationship with the technology that makes it possible-is hardly new. Even the "selfie artist" is hardly a creation of 2013. Its genesis isn't in the iPhone, but in the painted portrait: not among the Twitterati, but among the silk-waist coated dandies of nineteenthcentury Paris. It may seem like a stretch to mention selfie artists like Kim Kardashian or James Franco in the same breath as, for example, the French writer Jules-Amédée Barbey d'Aurevilly, but today's self-creators owe more to d'Aurevilly's view of the power of public image than you might think.
For d'Aurevilly and his ilk-recently celebrated in coffee-table book I Am Dandy, which profiles "modern-day" dandies from across the globe, dandyism was about more than mere sartorial elegance. It was a way of consciously existing in the world. And d'Aurevilly existed more consciously than most. His clothing was as legendary as his writing. He famously kept a collection of bejeweled walking sticks in his front parlor and informed journalists that his favorite was to be referred to as "ma femme." His 1844 hagiography of Beau Brummel, a dandy of another age, doubles as a manifesto: in his eyes, the true dandy evokes surprise, emotion, and passion in others, but remains entirely insensible himself, producing an effect to which he alone remains immune. D'Aurevilly's celebration of the dandy at times borders on idolatry: for d'Aurevilly, dandies are "those miniature Gods, who always try to create surprise by remaining impassive."