[passage-header]
Read the passage given below and answer the question that follows:
This passage is adapted from Geoffrey Giller, "Long a Mystery, How 500-Meter-High Undersea Waves Form Is Revealed." 2014 by Scientific American.[/passage-header]
73738Some of the largest ocean waves in the world are nearly impossible to see
13037. Unlike other large waves, these rollers called internal waves, do not ride the ocean surface. Instead,
61205they move underwater, undetectable without the use of satellite imagery or sophisticated monitoring equipment
66855. Despite their hidden nature, internal waves are fundamental parts of ocean water dynamics, transferring heat to the ocean depths and bringing up cold water from below And they can reach staggering heights - some as tall as skyscrapers.
Because these waves are involved in ocean mixing and thus the transfer of heat, understanding them is crucial to global climate modeling, says Tom Peacock, a researcher at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. Most models fail to take internal waves into account. "
51464If we want to have more and more accurate climate models, we have to be able to
96398capture processes such as this
85920," Peacock says. Peacock and his colleagues tried to do just that. Their study published in November in Geophysical Research Letters focused on internal waves generated in the Luzon Strait, which separates Taiwan and the Philippines.
36782Internal waves in this region, thought to be some of the largest in the world, can reach about 500 meters high
43292. "That's the same height as the Freedom Tower that's just been built in New York," Peacock says.
16528Although scientists knew of this phenomenon in the South China Sea and beyond, they didn't know exactly how internal waves formed
94538. To find out, Peacock and a team of researchers from M.I.T. and Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution worked with France's National Center for Scientific Research using a giant facility there called the Coriolis Platform. The rotating platform, about 15 meters (49.2 feet) in diameter, turns at variable speeds and can simulate Earth's rotation. It also has walls, which means scientists can fill it with water and create accurate, large-scale simulations of various oceanographic scenarios.
Peacock and his team built a carbon-fiber resin scale model of the Luzon Strait, including the islands and surrounding ocean floor topography. Then they filled the platform with water of varying salinity to replicate the different densities found at the strait, with denser, saltier water below and lighter, less briny water above. Small particles were added to the solution and illuminated with lights from below in order to track how the liquid moved. Finally, they re-created tides using two large plungers to see how the internal waves themselves formed.
The Luzon Strait's underwater topography, with a distinct double-ridge shape, turns out to be responsible for generating the underwater waves.
69817As the tide rises and falls and water moves through the strait, colder, denser water is pushed up over the ridges into warmer, less dense layers above it
28633.
This action results in bumps of colder water trailed by warmer water that generate an internal wave.
12531As these waves move toward land, they become steeper - much the same way waves at the beach become taller before they hit the shore - until they break on a continental shelf
19132.
The researchers were also able to
92527devise a mathematical model that describes the movement and formation of these waves.
61484Whereas the model is specific to the Luzon Strait, it can still help researchers understand how internal waves are generated in other places around the world
22111.
Eventually, this information will be incorporated into global climate models, making them more accurate. "It's very clear, within the context of these [global climate] models, that internal waves play a role in driving ocean circulations," Peacock says.